Serving Heritage

FROM HARRY’S SEAFOOD TO BEND OF THE RIVER, DOUG WOOD’S LOVE OF COOKING IS A VALUED FAMILY INHERITANCE. CATFISH CHARLIE’S IS A CULMINATION OF HIS FOOD EXPERIENCE FROM CHILDHOOD TO PRESENT.

article by VANELIS RIVERA & photography by TAYLOR BENNETT

CATFISH CHARLIE’S. The name alone promises laid-back, down-home comfort food – meticulously spiced, fried and tasty. Sure enough, walking into the restaurant, the family photos that line the walls will make you feel like you’re visiting relatives.

Love for cooking is the heart of Wood’s business model, a valued family inheritance. Doug’s grandfather, Harry Wood, owned the acclaimed Harry’s Seafood, across from North Monroe Hospital. His uncle owned Bend of the River in Alto, Louisiana, open for about 30 years. Admittedly, it’s in his blood. “I love cooking for people,” he says. More of a passion than a job, the kitchen has become Wood’s man cave. On any given week, he’ll go from cooking for his customers to cooking for his family at home. It’s just what he loves to do. Easily, he merits the same acclaim of any chef, but Wood doesn’t care for titles. “I’m not a chef. I hope I never will be,” he confirms. Instead, he’d rather be known as, “a good ol’ boy that loves to cook a good meal.” Call him what you will, pride in his food and the satisfaction of his customers is a priority no title can do justice to. “So you won’t get any prima donna” with him.

For Wood, memories and food go hand-in-hand, and that’s what he strives to bring to his menu. The famous thin and crispy catfish is a prime example of serving heritage on a plate. Growing up, every New Orleans road trip meant a stop at Louisiana landmark Middendorf’s Restaurant in Manchac, Louisiana. Wood claims it’s the only place to find a perfected “thin and crispy” fillet. His childhood food experience encouraged him to push the dish at Catfish Charlie’s, beginning with perfecting the recipe they had on deck. Their fish is only cooked to order, coming out “piping hot and crispy.”

Perfecting and reinventing have been part of Wood’s modus operandi, since he bought Catfish Charlie’s from former owner Charlie Coleman 10 years ago. He quickly applied what he learned from selling computer systems to restaurants – the common factor of a successful establishment is a present owner, one who is involved in setting the pace for his employees. He’s made things work based off his attention to growth. What began as the main dining area, eventually expanded into event rooms which were once adjacent stores. The two spacious event rooms are separated by French doors, an ideal space for wedding rehearsal dinners. The roms have become so popular that they get reserved at least 4 to 6 times per week for a variety of events. Bridging the gap between indoors and outdoors is an inviting deck, providing optimal dining al fresco, Louisiana weather permitting. The restaurant space evokes his love for “serving good food to folks and sharing life in that way.”

Good food is not hard to find in the Catfish Charlie’s menu. The two most popular and unique appetizers are their thin purple onion rings and the fried dill pickle slices. The homemade mozzarella sticks and the hand-breaded alligator bits have been a “whopping successes” as well. High on customer picks are the shrimp and fillets combo baskets and the oysters. Their most recent “big hit” has been their ‘10 under $10’ lunch special, served daily until 3 p.m. This great value point has has become 90% of their lunch orders and features some of their most popular sellers, such as the thin and crispy catfish, po’ boys, popcorn shrimp baskets, red beans and rice, and crawfish étouffée. Topping off their southern favorites is their crawfish, “the way it’s supposed to be done,” all seasoning in the water.

Skimming the menu reveals as many traditional items as those on the more eclectic side, which can be found in their Saucy Specialities. Their number-one seller is the Catfish D’Arbonne, a succulent 5 oz catfish fillet, fried, grilled or blackened, on a bed of rice with a crawfish cream sauce. “Ticket after ticket after ticket,” exclaims Wood, has at least one Catfish D’Arbonne on it. Not to be missed is the Shrimp Alfredo made with their homemade alfredo sauce and blackened shrimp on a bed of fettuccine noodles. Wood warns that it’s got a kick, without being too offensive, just enough to let you know it’s not a traditional alfredo. Finally, their Shrimp and Grits, inspired by a dish Wood tried at Dunleith Historic Inn in Natchez, MS, are stone-ground grits, sprinkled with fire roasted corn, fried okra and cayenne pepper. All of the grilled or blackened items–chicken, tilapia, catfish, coho salmon, ahi tuna–are seasoned with a local flare of homemade spices. They can be served over a fresh salad or as a plate with grilled veggies and homemade jambalaya. You don’t want to shy away from their meat items either. Their gourmet Angus burger can be packed onto a sourdough or jalapeño and cheese bun. And their steaks include a 6 oz filet mignon and a 16 oz hand-cut ribeye.
The number one comment about their north Mississippi Delta catfish is “Man, that is the second best fried fish I’ve ever had to mine.” Wood attributes this to how he prepares the fish. He fries it like he’s frying at home or at the hunting camp, taking his time. It’s not a line flow to him. They’re not dusting the cornmeal on, throwing it on the fryer, trying to push it out. At Catfish Charlie’s they take the whole 4-5 oz fillet, add the cornmeal and press the cornmeal in. Wood’s thoughtful food preparation has made the difference in presentation and flavor.

It’s not uncommon to have Catfish Charlie’s cater some of the most formal events in town, though one of the aspects of the business that intimidated Wood the most was catering. At the time, he’d never cooked for more than 100 people. Back then, he only had a 14-foot utility trailer he would pull behind his truck. He had to roll the friers into the trailer and strap them down, as well as haul tables and food, only to unload once he got on site. But that all changed thanks to his new on-site catering vehicle, a 26-foot trailer that allows them to travel as far as Arkansas for events.

Wood wants you to know that his menu has progressively transcended the usual southern fried staples. Unexpected additions to the menu, like their juicy burgers, have quickly become fan favorites. Yet, their wonderful burgers are not the only surprise being dished out. Within the span of a decade, Catfish Charlie’s has been in the wedding game, catering rehearsal dinners and receptions. For some, fried fish and shrimp are not wedding-fare appropriate, but being your own boss means that you can make and break the rules. Wood has been going off his menu for a while now, especially for catered events. A Catfish Charlie’s catered wedding means, “Attention to detail; quality with plenty of quantity” is something you’re going to get every single time.

Thanks to their sister company, Bayou Landing, which is run by his wife, Kaycee Wood, Catfish Charlie’s is incredibly versatile regarding the food they can provide in catering. Everyone loves the boiled shrimp pirogue. Wood has a couple of 5-foot pirogues that they fill with ice, boiled shrimp, lemons and cocktail sauce. At some events, per request, they’ve crisscrossed the pirogues and served raw oysters on the halfshell alongside the shrimp. Many of their requested catering items are hors d’oeurves-style, such as handsome meat and cheese trays, and fruit platters, as well as larger servings of grilled and blackened shrimp and fish, grilled chicken or shrimp pasta salad (an old family recipe), steaks, crawfish and homemade bread pudding.

A main worry when it comes to catering is whether there will be enough food, but Wood guarantees that when you get Catfish Charlie’s catering you are going to eat at your reception like you would eat at their restaurant, meaning “you’re going to be taking food home in a to-go box.” With his name and company on the line, Wood’s approach is, “We go big, or we go home.”

As a young boy, Wood found that most aspects of his life centered around home-cooked meals, whether it was church events, family reunions or hunting excursions. Even now, especially at the hunting camp, family and friends eagerly anticipate what he’ll bring to meals. If heritage is what you inherit, Wood’s inheritance has been pride in making a good meal and the love of sharing it, honoring his family with each plate served. He is the kind of man that will cook you his specialty shrimp and grits just so you can try them, living up to his father’s advice, “every customer, every time.”

If you are interested in having Catfish Charlie’s cater your next event, call and ask for Vicky Jackson, the “catering lady.” She takes the lead on all their catering.

Visit their main location found in the Office Depot Shopping Center on Louisville Avenue and 165 North in Monroe
(318-807-7070) or their second location at 4015 Sterlington Road (318-807-3474).
Follow them on Facebook or visit their website http://www.catfishcharlies.biz.