LA MD

In 2019, Dan Feibus and the team behind VIDALIA MILLS injected life and energy as well as revitalized the hope of Vidalia with their own goals of breathing life into the dying art of producing a uniquely American product, selvedge denim. Louisiana made, Vidalia Mills believes in the abilities of every man to create something beautiful, strong, and distinctive, something that brings tremendous satisfaction to everyone who proudly wears it, and especially those who proudly had a hand in making it.

ARTICLE BY NILS BORQUIST
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KELLY MOORE CLARK

As travelers meander south along Highway 425 and pass through the villages of Gilbert, Wisner, and Sicily Island before turning east toward the Mississippi River’s winding and rolling path, few landmarks catch the eye other than the constant sight of both singular and bundled grain elevators protruding from the earth, ragged and ivy festooned, as if the ground perpetually attempts to pull them under. Moving along, upon exiting Catahoula Parish and entering Concordia, the rusted maw of the Tensas River bridge swallows drivers and their vehicles before depositing them in tiny Clayton. A few miles more of farmland furrows stretching to the horizon brings about Ferriday, by far the most populous town witnessed over the previous hour or so of driving, then Ridgecrest, Minorca, and Taconey. Finally, with the great roiling river lying just beyond, Vidalia emerges. Vidalia possesses an understated and unassuming beauty, with richly soiled acreage surrounding the town and numerous local businesses, some barely alive while others are empty shells with only cracked storefront lettering remaining above the worn sidewalks, lining the main thoroughfare. The former stores survive on tattered memories of better times and the latter die in plain sight, a reminder of a difficult present for many residents, and a common sight in small towns and villages across the country. In recent years, several large employers closed or relocated and, as primary job providers for the region, took a great deal of the citizens’ financial, familial, and personal security with them. Worse yet, definitely for small towns so reliant on local industry, they removed a great deal of hope when they left. Fortunately, in 2019, Dan Feibus and the team behind Vidalia Mills entered the picture and injected life and energy as well as revitalized the hope of the town with their own goals of breathing life into the dying art of producing a uniquely American product, selvedge denim.

Although denim is technically an original creation of the French, the name even deriving from a product called serge de Nimes, or serge from Nimes, the connection between the material and America cannot be disputed, especially considering the name Levi Strauss. Over the past century and a half, the world has embraced denim-based apparel, especially jeans, as a favorite item for work and play. Created from cotton, denim production has accelerated tremendously over that time, becoming overly produced to the point that the current global supply, as pointed out by Vidalia Mills Senior Advisor Robert Antoshak, has far surpassed the demand. With that fact in mind, one could certainly ask why opening a mill that produces denim would be so exciting for any town. Multiple reasons exist for the excitement. First, Vidalia Mills plans to be involved in various aspects of the apparel world. Second, the chance to be a part of the rebirth of the American textile mill industry induces a tremendous amount of national, regional, and local pride. Third, and an important factor, Vidalia Mills has invested a tremendous amount of time, money, and energy in becoming not only one of the few global producers of selvedge denim but the premier selvedge milling company that artisan and specialty manufacturers turn to provide the highest quality and most sought after product. Thus far in their brief history, all signs point toward absolute success for that target.

In order to achieve their goals, Vidalia Mills created and is delivering a multi-pronged and innovative approach, combining traditional American pride, vintage machinery, and environmentally-friendly practices. First, Vidalia Mills ownership wanted to find a facility, preferably in the south, that met the size and scope needs of the proposed operation; after scouting several locations that could have worked across the Gulf region, the chance at purchasing a nearly turnkey ready building, a former Fruit of the Loom mill, in a tiny town in Louisiana was pounced upon. The opportunity to hire dozens of local workers who already had a great deal of textile mill experience in various capacities emerged as a strong factor as well.

A SECOND GOAL, to procure high-quality machinery, also fortuitously fell in place. In 2017, the historic Cone Mills White Oak plant, a facility with over a century of denim and selvedge denim production, and at the time the last American producer of selvedge, was closed. With the property in developing stages of demolition, the question of what to do with the vintage loom machines arose. Fortunately, word of the equipment’s impending doom reached the ears of Vidalia Mills, and they rushed to the factory to negotiate a deal. In less than two weeks, the deal had been completed, and the looms, highly sought after 1940’s era Draper x3s, along with spare parts and even the original wooden floors they were, and still are, attached to were on their way from Greensboro, North Carolina, to Vidalia. Along with the 40+ Drapers, Vidalia Mills purchased other machines to meet their needs, meaning they were on their way to begin working.

The third piece of the equation, and an important part for the ownership, was creating a top-of-the-line selvedge that would appeal to premier apparel companies. In order to make such a product, Vidalia Mills management knew that getting and keeping a satisfied workforce was imperative. With that in mind, they began hiring and training staff, paying them double the Louisiana minimum wage and offering unparalleled benefits. This icing on the cake, a textile company taking tremendous care of their staff, a rare occurrence according to Antoshak, likely means that the men and women running the equipment will only get better and better at playing integral roles in optimal production. Due to their focus and preparation, Vidalia Mills has partnered with brands such as Imogene + Willie and Left Field Jeans to create unique clothing that will only induce more fruitful partnerships in the years to come.

Above all else, and a point heavily emphasized, the company wishes to build their success on a solid foundation of sustainability. Although most people are likely unaware, the global textile industry creates an enormous amount of waste, an issue that inevitably means a negative environmental impact. One of the most vital components of a clean footprint is the choice of cotton, a selection that matters both in terms of the genetic basis of the crop as well as where it is grown. Finding a high-quality cotton, then, emerged as a priority, and Vidalia Mills found a premium partner in BASF, one of the largest chemical companies in the world. Of the many products engineered by BASF, their e3 cotton blend certainly appealed to Vidalia Mills management. While the census view for most may be that all cotton is essentially the same cotton, the fact is that numerous varieties exist that can be sorted by color, texture, and density, and BASF’s e3 blend combines multiple desirable qualities.

According to BASF’s website, the e3 blend meets three important aspects: “they’re socially equitable, economically viable and environmentally responsible.” The cotton is followed throughout its life, from growth on the farm all the way to the retailer who uses the product. By keeping track of the specific sources, the farmers receive credit for their work, and the apparel producers know exactly where the cotton came from and how it was grown. Additionally, a third-party inspection company maintains specific records concerning the type and amount of pesticides used, water sourcing, and potential contaminations. The end result is a crop that is as beautiful, clean, and environmentally-friendly as possible. For Vidalia Mills, this purity meant that e3 was to be integral to their selvedge production. The company values e3 so much that the 150 acres upon which Vidalia Mills is located is being used as a personal farm of sorts. Specifically, BASF recently oversaw the planting and maintenance of 5 acres of e3 cotton on Vidalia Mills’ property so that a specialty denim that will be created from the yield in their front yard will only have to travel 100 feet to get into the front door.

While it is special that Vidalia Mills pursues a path that includes rejuvenating a town, being environmentally sound, and placing the art of creation above the quick dollar, the ownership realizes that being diverse is in the best interest of the company’s longevity. With that in mind, leadership has wisely included storing cotton (they are a USDA-certified warehouse for storage), knitting fabrics, and spinning yarn in their repertoire. Perhaps even more beneficial when one considers the need for safe apparel and gear for front-line workers during the COVID-19 pandemic, Vidalia Mills began production on hospital scrubs as well as purchased specialty machines explicitly designed to create clean and reusable masks. The masks, made in conjunction with Los Angeles-based apparel company Keep It Here, are sold at Wal-Mart, and they are aptly labeled “Masks of Honor.”

The Vidalia Mills team, a group with many decades of experience in the textile industry, could have planted their home base anywhere in the country. They would have undoubtedly been successful no matter where they went with their thoughtful approach. The fact that they took a chance in Louisiana, on a small town like many others in the state where people have been left believing an opportunity to be a part of a special team was only a pipe dream, means a tremendous amount to the citizens of Vidalia. It means that a company so greatly invested in a unique product has placed their faith in them to come through. The unspoken message displayed by Vidalia Mills is to believe in your product, believe in your country, and believe in the abilities of the everyman to create something beautiful, strong, and distinctive, something that brings tremendous satisfaction to everyone who proudly wears it, and especially those who proudly had a hand in making it.