Hideaway at Freddie’s

article by VANELIS RIVERA | photography by BRAD ARENDER

Gas station grub is usually associated with too salty or too sweet treats, dubious sandwiches and wraps, and greasy grab-and-gos. Typically, not the quintessential location for any restaurant that is dine-in worthy. But at the intersection of Old Sterlington Road and Finks Hideaway Road, a culinary hideaway is tucked beside a run-of-the-mill Chevron station, and it offers a taste of Italy with an original flair of South Louisiana comfort food.

Freddie Cascio’s Italian and Cajun Ristoranté is more than just a Monroe staple. It is a Monroe culinary landmark. Freddie Cascio, the restaurant’s namesake, can trace his Italian roots back to another boot-shaped land mass from across the pond: Sicily. His grandparents traveled to America from Sicily, an island below mainland Italy of subtle beauty and a rich history. Distinct to the region, the surname Cascio is a possible variant of one of the Italian words for cheese: cacio. A curiosity that seems more prophetic than coincidental based on the family’s longstanding restaurant enterprise in Monroe.

Freddie learned the restaurant business starting in 1976 at The Chateau, a family-run locale on Louisville that provided an elegant dining experience. There, Freddie studied under his uncle, Victor, who taught him how to cook, and his uncle also provided a solid groundwork of culinary skills. Led by passion and gumption, Freddie attended and studied at a culinary school in California, living there for a full year. After his West Coast excursion, he returned briefly to Monroe, only to then travel to Little Rock, Arkansas, where he worked at a culinary powerhouse: Cajun’s Wharf, a rustic Cajun-style seafood and steak restaurant. With a keen eye for detail and seemingly destined to own his own restaurant, Freddie returned to Monroe ready to put his acquired skills and his natural talent to the test.

Freddie established his Italian and Cajun Ristoranté in 1991, after he noticed that the area had a vacancy and growing potential for a restaurant to flourish. He remembers skeptics treating his enterprise as a fool’s errand, but twenty-seven years later, the still standing restaurant has proven otherwise and vested this unassuming local ‘little Italy’ as an unpredictable tour de force, as far as local restaurants go. Freddie’s success should not suggest the going has been easy. The restaurant business is “a real tough business,” he explains frankly. He admits that his advice to those who have sought guidance from him on whether they should also take the leap-of-faith into the restaurant world has been, “I wouldn’t do it if I were you.” He chuckles at the irony of it, but affirms that, once in the restaurant business, unwavering commitment and solid consistency are imperative for longevity. “Good food and good service that’s consistent,” he firmly believes is the simple, yet effective, blueprint for any restaurant that plans to develop any long-staying power.

There’s no mistaking the cultural hybrid that is Freddie Cascio’s. Italy meets Louisiana not only in cuisine but also restaurant aesthetic. A black vertical sign presents the restaurant’s staples in light pastels and dark primary colors: PASTA, Ettouffee, LASAGNA, Canneloni, Muffalletta, Manicotti. The sign sits alongside two candy-apple red doors that display a forest green sign reading: “Home of the… Original Crawfish Enchiladas” with a crawfish clip art. Walking into the snug and mellow space is like walking into a quaint and nostalgically attractive time capsule of obscure and common cultural references. A retro poster of Farrah Fawcett fashioning her staple feathered layers in all its 70’s glory hangs side-by-side a very believable reproduction of the Mona Lisa, whose demure mystery smirk juxtaposes Fawcett’s girl-next-door Colgate-perfect smile. Collections of photographs—black and white, sepia and color—hang indiscriminately, layers of decades on the walls attesting to the character and legacy of the space. Tables are covered in the traditional red and white checkered tablecloths, while booths line the walls and offer a more intimate eating experience. BayouLife suggests sitting in what we like to call the Frank Sinatra booth, located at the left wing of the restaurant. A 20 x 35” poster of a 22 year-old Sinatra, mischievous eyes, slicked-back hair and sultry demeanor emanate from his 1938 mugshot. His arrest charge was “Seduction.” What better way to enjoy pasta all’italiana (the Italian way) than next to the ultimate Italian heartthrob?

Much like the restaurant, the dishes served at Freddie Cascio’s have endured the ages. Favorite appetizers of customers include the Oysters Rockefeller and their homemade cheese sticks. The Rockefellers are plump oysters baked in their shell and topped with spicy, garlic-spiked sauteed spinach. Rolled by hand and fried crisp in a thin coating, the cheese sticks are served hot with a side of rich homemade ranch dressing. It would be a mistake to pass-up the cheese sticks (unless, of course, you are lactose intolerant), because Freddie Cascio’s cheese sticks are NOT your basic mozzarella stick. The ranch dressing is creamy, flavorful and best described by a recently satisfied customer’s review: “I can dip my life in this ranch.” It’s simply one of those sauces you wish were sold by the bottle! (Hint, hint Cascio’s).

Their thick tomato sauce, rich and savory, is made by Freddie himself. Venture into their Italian Spago, which is slang for pasta, section of the menu to choose what to top your pasta with—homemade meatballs, homemade Italian sausage, homemade meat sauce, olive oil and garlic, shrimp or chicken breast. Italian specialties, of course, dominate the menu. The eggplant parmigiana is a classic, prepared with pasta battered eggplant with ham, meat sauce, and topped with mozzarella cheese and served in a casserole. Another sound Italian delight are the cannelloni shells stuffed with beef, pork, spinach and seasonings, then topped with Béchamel sauce–also known as white sauce, which is made from a white roux and milk. It has been considered, since the seventeenth century, one of the mother sauces of French cuisine. Also be sure to try the traditional baked lasagna—layers of pasta filled with meat sauce and ricotta cheese, then topped with creamy parmigiana cheese. BayouLife recommends treating yourself by pairing your meal with one of the wines from their beverage menu, which includes whites and reds from Germany, France, Veneto, Tuscany and Napa Valley.

In the Creole-inspired corner, the favorites include the Crawfish Enchiladas, which are two enchiladas in a thick, creamy sauce; Catfish Rosie, shrimp and crawfish tails with mushrooms and green onions mixed in a Béchamel sauce over catfish fillets; Seafood Fettuccini Oysters, a delectable fettuccini topped with shrimp, crabmeat, crawfish tails and mushrooms in a Béchamel sauce; Shrimp Queenie Shrimp, crawfish tails, mushrooms and green onions in a Béchamel sauce over angel hair pasta or fettuccini. You simply can’t go wrong with their Muffaletta Sandwich, which is prepared with Genoa salami, ham, provolone cheese, mortadella and topped with Olive Salad prepared by the famous Central Grocery of New Orleans.

In addition to the popular staples, some menu surprises that have gained traction with customers include the hamburger with cheese, the 12 oz. ribeye (served with French fries or a baked potato), and Freddie’s most recent special: the Red Snapper Cascio. Considering it his signature dish, this fish entry is a broiled South Louisiana snapper topped with sauteed lump crab meat in a light lemon butter sauce and served with baked potato or French fries and a refreshing salad.

Weekly specials abound at Freddie Cascio’s. They now serve pans of crawfish enchiladas (a six person serving) for carry-out that could serve as a perfect holiday package. Soft shell crabs are in now, which means soft shell crab po’boys are available on the menu. Wednesday is whole catfish day, while Thursdays are 2-for-1 Angus Choice Cut ribeye meal time. The specials are served with salad, fresh bread and your choice of baked potato, green beans or fries. Chow time doesn’t stop at these rollicking specials. Spaghetti bucket giveaways occur on ‘the reg’ via the restaurant’s Facebook page. Full buckets of spaghetti, for you, to eat. You can’t be upsetti with that much spaghetti!
Freddie Cascio’s Italian and Cajun Ristoranté has been described as having a very casual “Monroe atmosphere,” which speaks to the proclivity of good food curating the restaurant’s enduring popularity and steadfast identity. Passion and consistency is the secret here. Sit among walls full of extensive mementos while satisfying your craving for classic dishes in this gas station get-away meets haute eatery—one of the area’s best kept heirlooms.

Find Freddie Cascio’s at 305 Finks Hideaway Road, Monroe, Louisiana 71203. They are open Tuesday through Friday between 11 AM to 2 PM for lunch then 5 PM to 10 PM for dinner. On Saturdays they are only open for dinner between 5 PM to 10 PM. Call them at 318-345-4536 if you are interested in the space for a wedding reception, birthday party, or similar event. Follow them on Facebook to learn more about their plans to open another restaurant in New Orleans.