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BayouEats | Fare, Sips + Dips

By Nathan Coker
In Bayou Eats
Dec 1st, 2023
0 Comments
902 Views

article by VANELIS RIVERA
photography by KELLY MOORE CLARK

In July of last year, one of Monroe’s culinary cornerstones decided to close its doors after twenty-eight years of committed and unfailing service. Proprietor Jenifer Johnson of Trio’s Dining released a heartfelt statement to her Monroe customers, many of whom flooded the post with heartfelt replies and a final nod to some of their favorite Trio’s dishes and memories. Even then, what felt like an ending was really a transformation. The once divey bar and grill has turned a new leaf, specifically a bright green olive leaf. Jenifer handed over the restaurant torch to her stepdaughter Muriel Elaine Woodard, who embraced the recently renovated space all while adding fresh and spiffy personal touches. The by-product of her tireless effort is a welcoming environment where fare, sips, and dips meet a cozy atmosphere that goes by the name of Olive + Oak.

“I have always enjoyed cooking and baking,” says Muriel who started her early kitchen endeavors alongside her grandmother. “You know, one of those southern, cook with your grandmother things.” Though she initially pursued fashion design in college, she quickly realized the program didn’t quite fit her. That’s how she ended up studying baking and pastries at the New Orleans Culinary & Hospitality Institute (NOCHI). “It was really fun. I enjoyed it a lot,” she informs with enthusiasm. After graduating in 2019, she began cake decorating at a few bakeries and worked as a chocolatier at the local favorite Sucré, which specializes in macarons and high-end pastries. Last summer, she moved back to the Monroe area by way of Choudrant where a casual hangout with Johnson turned into the mapping out of a new restaurant concept.

The planning process began with the word tapas, a traditional Spanish appetizer or snack that can be combined to make a full meal. Muriel sat with her partner Christian and listed all of her favorite foods, many of which fell into one of her favorite food genres—snacks with drinks, most popularly known as “girl dinner,” at least according to TikTok. “We tried to make all of the shareables,” she says, referring to menu items that can be expedited quickly and, most importantly, shared among diners. These initial stages lead to a simple and straightforward restaurant concept that culminates in the perfect night out, one that can begin with light or prodigious snacking, varied and comfortable seating, and an array of drinks to further enhance the good times. 

One of the first ingredients Muriel experimented with was cheese. “Cheese was big,” she laughs, adding “I like to put things that you wouldn’t immediately think go together.” One such dish is the Pear + Brie Salad Skewers served with walnuts, arugula, pomegranate, and balsamic glaze. “People are a big fan of that one,” she says. Another playful menu item arrived on the menu straight from her home kitchen. “We call them grown-up grilled cheeses in our house.” On the menu, you will find two. The Pear + Brie Grilled Cheese (brie, pepper jelly, arugula, and pears on parmesan-crusted sourdough bread) and Steak + Gruyère Grilled Cheese (sliced steak, Gruyère and mozzarella, and arugula on parmesan crusted sourdough bread).

From the restaurant’s grand opening on October 11th, its reputation has steadily spread. It didn’t take long for diners to pinpoint their favorite food items and come back for more. The Burrata + Steak Crostini (steak cooked to your temperature served with fresh burrata) has been a top selection for many diners, as well as the Fancy Burger, a flavorsome meat patty stuffed with goat cheese, layered with pepper jelly, arugula, and red onions, all between a brioche bun. Though it has been gratifying to witness her recipes so well received, Muriel also included Trio’s staples on the menu, which many have been happy to come back to. Hummus is back! Choose from the Lamb Ragu Hummus or the Loaded Hummus, which is a medley of feta, black olives, roasted garlic, and sundried tomatoes over classic hummus. Additionally, fans of Trio’s pizzas will be happy to see the Trio’s Original (pepperoni, sausage, onion, bell peppers, black olives, tomatoes, mushrooms, and jalapeños), as well as an option to “build your own.” Of course, they didn’t forget to include the Mediterranean Quesadilla (only on their lunch menu)—Trio’s cheese blend, spinach, olives, roasted eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, and fresh basil. 

Reconceptualizing the menu also meant revamping a few restaurant features, which came easily to Muriel thanks to her design background. She began with the vibe, which she describes as “moody but cozy.” She had a lot to work with, as the remodeled space already held a chic, tavernesque aesthetic inspired by funky, upscale lounges. To complement the new restaurant’s name, an accent wall was painted olive and a few dark wood panels were added to an adjacent wall. Flushed with ambient light and whimsical wall accents, Muriel has created an intimate and stylish eatery. 

Attention to detail has been crucial to Muriel’s process, even regarding dinnerware. For plating, slate slabs steal the show, and will eventually be used for charcuterie menu items. Salads, pasta dishes, and hummus sit on timeless, slate grey, low bowls. More subtle accents can be spied in the bar area where mismatched, colored glasses stand out from the low-lit shelves. Each was painstakingly handpicked from different thrift stores in New Orleans. Always a fan of glass dishware aisles, particularly in second-hand stores, shopping proved a difficult feat. Narrowing down selections took the form of imagining the kind of drink selections she had listed on her menu, the type of drink as well as its presentation. The result is an eclectic collection of plates and glassware that further adds texture to the artful space. 

With this said, you absolutely don’t want to skim over the cocktail menu, which currently features nine items. Ask the impeccable Ella Nealy, resident bartender, to make you an Espresso Martini, made with vodka, Kahlua, simple syrup, and espresso, then poured into a vintage-style champagne glass and topped with roasted coffee beans. For more fruity notes, order a Cucumber Pomegranate Margarita, a sharp mix of tequila, cucumber, triple sec, pomegranate, and sour mix. Daily specials are always being created, and some of their most recent mixes include the Cranberry Bourbon Smash, Blackberry Mint Gin Martini, and Gingerbread Espresso Martini.

In many ways, Olive + Oak is still that same neighborhood place that Jenifer carefully curated. And with Muriel’s skill and talent, it promises to extend the same warmth it held for twenty-eight years. After all, Jenifer has always considered Trio’s to be a family-run restaurant, and now that lineage has become a fresh new name and space tucked on the corner of Forsythe Avenue and Oliver Road.

Olive + Oak is open Monday through Saturday between 11 Am to 10 PM. The dinner menu begins after 3 PM. For more information visit them on Facebook, Instagram, or their website oliveoakmonroe.com.