Country Boy Soul Food

article by VANELIS RIVERA | photography by MARTIN G MEYERS

When the mayor of a town is known for frequenting a certain restaurant, it’s better than a five-star Yelp review. Such is the case at The Fish House, Sterlington’s easy-going hangout spot serving country boy soul food — deep-Southern comfort favorites.

Owner and Monroe native Brad Elias dreamed up the idea while he was working as a grocery sales representative, servicing local restaurants. While making a loop next to Sterlington High School, he noticed new commercial space construction. A go getter, he decided to get the “inside scoop” on its prospective use. Inspired by the space and its potential, he pitched the idea of opening a restaurant to his wife, Oak Grove homegirl Cherri Elias. Already wanting to move to the expanding town, Cherri told Brad, “We gotta do it.” Further fueled by Mayor Vern Breland’s drive to grow the area, Brad says that the decision was effortless– “You could talk to the mayor for 10 minutes and realize he had a vision to grow this town.” In 2008, the couple moved to Sterlington and opened The Fish House.

Brad’s original plan was to start a crawfish place, so he could keep his day job while maintaining what would be a seasonal restaurant. But the owners of the building wanted a restaurant that could stay open year round, which is how catfish was added as a menu item. This became a gateway food to other all-American favorites such as burgers. The demand of the expanding menu forced the couple to quit their jobs and take the restaurant business full on. Brad’s experience in the food business paired with his wife’s hard work enabled the development of the business and what would soon become a go-to food stop. The business took off beyond their expectations. As a mostly fry-focused restaurant, they began with a 12-inch grill. The next thing they knew, three grill stations lay claim to their open kitchen. When Brad opened, he had two partners that helped kick-start the business, but he bought them out in one year.

Fried hand-breaded seafood dinner favorites include their “Pride of the Pond” catfish filets bought from Haring Catfish in Wisner, Louisiana, “fresh out of the shell” Gulf oysters, shrimp and the “always a treat” frog legs. Seafood on the grill items include their blackened catfish and/or shrimp served over Jambalaya with corn on the cob and salad.

In the last two years their meats have gathered a reputation and following. Some customers have compared their 16 oz ribeye steak to high-end steakhouses in the Monroe area. “You won’t believe the ribeyes that go out the to-go window,” says Cherri. Even the burgers– ground chuck meat, hand pattied, and served on a toasted or jalapeño bun– have become such a frequented item that Cherri has jokingly asked herself whether she owns a burger house or a fish house.

The Fish House boasts a diverse menu worthy of exploring. For appetizers, try the Craw Daddy’s Crawfish Tails or their beer battered onion rings. Their Cajun speciality items include chicken and sausage gumbo and Cajun-style snow crab legs. A selection of po’boys, salads and sandwiches feature chicken, shrimp, crawfish and catfish options. And for their lunch specials, served from 11 a.m. – 2 p.m., chow down on beef tips and rice on Tuesday, chicken and dumplings on Wednesday, fried pork chops on Thursday and fried chicken on Friday.

The Elias’ credit the growth of the restaurant’s menu to their customers. Striving to “learn” their customers and tune into their likes and dislikes has made all the difference to their success. Their regulars are a testament to the restaurant trifecta– location, food and service. “We have the greatest customers,” beams Brad. They travel from Log Cabin, Rocky Branch, Hamburg and Oak Grove and they come in dirty from the ball field, worn out from fishing or hunting, styling camo gear or dressed-up in work clothes. The Fish House is a ‘one size fits all’ deal.

“The biggest honor is when a customer says it’s her birthday, and they come here,” reveals Brad who still remembers the first birthday celebrated at The Fish House. It’s a big deal to the Elias’ that someone would be willing to spend their “big dinner” at what has become a second home for customers and employees. Customers have chosen to hold wedding receptions, graduation parties and engagement proposals – once the restaurant had two at the same time.

There’s no mistaking that the couple is dedicated beyond the usual food service call of duty, especially as owners. “We’re right around the corner,” informs Cherri, referring to living down the road from the restaurant. They’re not strangers to having to drive to the restaurant in order to assist the staff. They’ve been offered to franchise the restaurant, but they never pursued, because their pride lies in being present at the restaurant and available to their customers. “Customers know where I stand. Right back there all day long,” says Brad, and he has no plans to change that.

Even their kids have grown up and been immersed in the business– 22-year-old Carli, 18-year-old Carson, and 7-year-old Raylee. When Raylee comes in she plugs her name into the system, types in orders, sits customers, and helps to clean tables. Brad gets in the kitchen as often as he’s needed. But he’s more of a back of the house player. The couple shift to any assignment that is needed, and they expect the same from their staff. That’s why they don’t have a manager. “There’s no one in charge. They’re all just doing their job,” says Cherri while Brad adds, “Everyone is responsible for taking care of business.”

It’s been easy for their employees to learn the ins and outs of running The Fish House, because it’s quite simply the “cool place” to be. It’s the Sterlington hangout. Many of the employees are local kids, ULM and Tech students, friends working together. Devon, the current bartender, has been working for the Elias’ for 5 years. He first came to work for them while already having a job with his father, but he wanted to work at the place where all his friends were working. Cherri jokes that nobody ever leaves The Fish House, as employees return to work even after graduating or even having steady jobs. Currently they have a radiology technician, respiratory therapist and registered nurse on staff, former employees that returned. They know the Elias’ consider them family and they clearly return the sentiment.

Though ultimately a place of fun for employees and customers alike, The Fish House family has had their share of hard times. A few years ago they lost one of their beloved cooks Reola “ReRe” Green. She was a mother of three and one of their hardest workers. Brad remembers her as “the mother of the kitchen,” a woman who was respected by the staff and notorious for her ability to dilute tense situations in seconds. Their most recent loss, one that impacted the town as well, was the passing of 26-year-old Megan Jackson last October. Megan graduated from ULM last summer, but stayed working at the restaurant even while applying for jobs. She kept hanging out a bit longer, telling her mother that she wasn’t ready to leave The Fish House just yet. Megan is commemorated in the restaurant with a picture of a white bicycle laced with sunflowers, her favorite flower. Mr. P’s Tees has agreed to make shirts in honor of Megan and donate 10% to St. Judes. Thus far, they have had approximately 100 orders. Many of Megan’s former customers have ordered shirts, some of whom attended her funeral.

Both employees are memorialized through an unusual but charming display that can only be witnessed during Christmas or what the Elias’ have dubbed “Fishmas.” During this time two Elf on the Shelf collectables can be spotted hanging from the teeth of the 12-foot taxidermied gator perched on the tin roof of the bar area. One is named ReRe, and the other, styled into a makeshift sunflower dress, has been named Megan. Cherri remarks that the Fish House elves are a house favorite, with children remembering the names of the whimsical characters and being delighted at where in the restaurant they will appear next.

The Fish House has invested in the town and people of Sterlington, creating a space that functions more like a community center than a restaurant. Just like a good ‘ol country boy, The Fish House experience is polite, easy-going and genuine.

Located in 8823 US-165 #6, Monroe, LA, The Fish House is open Tuesday to Saturday between 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Join them on March 24th to celebrate the restaurant’s 10-year anniversary. Call them for more information at 318-807-0876 or follow them on Facebook.